28.9.05

the shanghai diaries

i've just gotten back to my dad's house in hong kong, from a weeklong trip to shanghai visiting an old friend. shanghai is amazing, and in many ways reminds me of hong kong - the unending hustle and bustle, the bright lights and towers, and the massive roiling crowds. in many ways, shanghai to me is a young hong kong, striving towards some capitalist consumer pinnacle of power - it just has more land in which to do it, and a constant source of cheap labor from the surrounding areas. shanghai is truly the city that never sleeps, with construction crews working around the clock, and jackhammers pounding away just outside my bedroom at 7 am on a saturday morning.

shanghai is a city that had been frozen in time for the last 40 years, after the communists and the cultural revolution removed it from the world's awareness, and the expat elite that had made shanghai the most westernized place in asia moved to hong kong. it is a place where you can see bamboo scaffolds wrapping skyscrapers; walk down old narrow side alleys where the street is an extension of private space, with the most amazing smells coming from street-side kitchens adorned with drying laundry - and watch grown men gamble on cricket fights against a backdrop of shiny glass and steel.
after going to shanghai, you may never think new york city is a fast place again.

more to write, and photos too, after i come back to the fading empire...

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11.9.05

another gorgeous september day

today is my niece's birthday. she just turned four. this morning my brother called (at what seemed ridiculously early to a dehydrated drunken brain) to tell me that the inflatable trampoline i had bought her was a huge hit at the birthday party. apparently trampolines are amazing babysitters, allowing the grown-ups to hang out and discuss grown-up types of things.

today of course, is also the day that those airplanes crashed into those towers - now eerily recalled with twin spotlights shining up to the sky. i spent the afternoon watching friends put on a dance performance remembering 9.11 in central park. i was convinced that one of the many law enforcement representatives were going to call off the clearly unpermitted, and quite political show, but apparently none of them found a ballet-dancing george bush offensive.

birthdays, creative protest, and towers of light. life does just go on.